Our skin is more than just a protective barrier – it’s a complex, dynamic organ that interacts with everything it comes into contact with. From the skincare products we apply to environmental pollutants, our skin plays a crucial role in absorbing and processing substances. But how exactly does this absorption work, and what factors influence it? Once we understand this process, it helps us to make more informed decisions about the products we use – and is the exact reason our founder switched to natural skincare and created White Rabbit!
How Does Skin Absorption Work?
The skin consists of three primary layers:
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Epidermis: The outermost layer, which acts as a protective barrier.
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Dermis: The middle layer, containing blood vessels, nerves, and connective tissue.
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Hypodermis: The deepest layer, consisting of fat and connective tissue that insulates the body.
Most skincare ingredients must penetrate the epidermis to be effective, particularly reaching the stratum corneum – a layer of dead skin cells that act as a shield against external aggressors. Some compounds, depending on their molecular structure and solubility, can go deeper into the dermis, where they may enter the bloodstream (Hanson et al., 2011).
Factors That Influence Skin Absorption
Several factors determine how well an ingredient penetrates the skin:
1. Molecular Size and Weight
Smaller molecules (under 500 Daltons) can more easily pass through the skin barrier. This principle, known as the "500 Dalton Rule," is why some active ingredients, like vitamin C and hyaluronic acid, are designed to be small enough for better absorption (Bos & Meinardi, 2000).
2. Solubility (Oil vs. Water-Based)
The skin naturally repels water, meaning oil-soluble ingredients penetrate more effectively. This is why olive squalane, a key ingredient in our Olive & Avocado Illuminating Skincare Serum, is so effective – it mimics the skin’s natural sebum, allowing it to be absorbed easily and hydrate deeply.
3. pH Level
The skin has a slightly acidic pH (around 4.7–5.5), which influences ingredient absorption. Products formulated to match this natural pH, like our Coconut & Rosehip Calming Cream, are more likely to maintain skin barrier integrity and optimise ingredient penetration (Lambers et al., 2006).
4. Condition of the Skin Barrier
A compromised skin barrier – due to over-exfoliation, harsh chemicals, or skin conditions like eczema – can allow substances to penetrate more quickly, sometimes leading to irritation or systemic absorption of harmful ingredients (Elias, 2005). Gentle, nourishing products like our Eucalyptus & Lavender Comforting Cleansing Balm help maintain a healthy barrier.
5. Application Method
Massage, occlusion (covering with a barrier like an oil or balm), and heat all enhance absorption. For example, applying our Chamomile and Carrot Seed Rejuvenating Eye Cream with gentle tapping motions helps encourage penetration without stretching delicate skin.
Ingredients That Penetrate vs. Sit on the Surface
Not all skincare ingredients need to penetrate deeply to be effective. Some, like humectants (e.g., glycerin and hyaluronic acid), work best on the skin’s surface by attracting moisture. Others, like antioxidants (e.g., such as extracts, like bilberry, olive, mango and such), can penetrate deeper to neutralise free radicals and support skin health at a cellular level.
Why Ingredient Quality Matters
Since some ingredients can reach the bloodstream, it’s essential to choose safe, high-quality, and non-toxic products. Avoiding parabens, phthalates, and artificial fragrances – linked to hormone disruption and skin irritation (Darbre & Harvey, 2014) – ensures a cleaner, safer skincare routine. That’s why at White Rabbit Skincare, we use only plant-derived, vegan ingredients that support your skin without harmful additives.
Making Informed Skincare Choices
By understanding how the skin absorbs ingredients, you can make better choices about what to apply to your face and body. Opt for products with:
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Small, bioavailable molecules for effective penetration.
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Oil-based formulas that mimic skin’s natural lipids.
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pH-balanced compositions to maintain a healthy barrier.
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Ethically sourced, non-toxic ingredients to protect both skin and overall health.
White Rabbit Skincare is committed to formulating products that work with your skin’s biology – not against it! Whether you're using a nourishing moisturiser, a deeply penetrating serum, or a gentle cleansing balm, you can trust that every ingredient has been chosen with care. As always, do you research, and buy from businesses you trust.